Over 2021 the studio has been working on a series of pieces for the fashion label Loewe. In addition to sculptures for a photo shoot, a series of smaller Pomarius works have been developed as limited edition costume jewellery pieces for Loewe’s SS21 collection under creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The Covid crisis creates a very peculiar backdrop for this project! Over the course of the year, the studio become a repeated stop for UPS collection and couriers, ferrying bronze fruit and vegetable samples back and forth to the Loewe office in Paris. Little snippets of Suffolk captured as bronze trinkets, disappearing off in brown boxes.
This little stream of casts went on to become the limited edition jewellery series. I produced many more Pomarius works than were ultimately going to becoming wearable pieces - for example, the broccoli and lotus root pieces above. By casting and trialling different varieties of produce, working out what worked best with this 'altered function' of jewellery, a little group were eventually decided upon to take forward.
Working with weight was tricky - although small, these pieces were heavy in bronze and remained heavy when recreated in brass. The would need to be comfortable to wear so there were certain limitations - we found a whole figs was too much, a half fig much more wearable! It was decided that the focus should be three-dimensional pieces (not sliced fruits!) so the smallest produce that could be found or foraged became the focus. In addition to choosing the form and shape of the pieces, Loewe had to work out the best way to recreate the works at their own production studio. As the final works were not bronze, a way to imitate the patina on the pieces had to be found. Enamel was suggested for some works and we discussed chemicals on brass that might produce a similar effect to the verdigris on my bronzes.
When getting closer to deciding upon the final set, I produced and finished two or three variations of the same fruit or mushroom as unique sculptures, completely finished with the same patina and finish to be reproduced as the brass jewellery pieces. These in turn became fully finished sample necklaces which were then signed off and production could begin.
And so the final works are reproduced in brass, enamel and calfskin. The SS21 collaboration consists of pendant chillies, mushrooms, walnuts, asparagus, soya beans and figs.
It’s been such a delight seeing these pieces enjoyed in such a different way - worn, not just held. I’ve always loved the idea of these pieces outlasting their initial ‘keeper’, something that can be passed along to another family member. Perhaps there’s something even more intimate about a worn object being passed along from one wearer to the next. Still picking up a patina of its own over time, or having the current one rubbed away and transformed with tactile attention.
These pieces are available in store and online via loewe.com